The high rock exteriors difference

Typical Build:

New Deck Build:
We strive to use the best practices in all of our builds for a beautiful sturdy deck that will last a long time.

Planning

• Provide 3d renderings if the customer is interested to allow the customer to visualize the final product. This is an additional cost.
• Help the customer with the design, layout and material selections for a deck build that fits the customer's need and budget. Typically this is Free unless it is an extensive project.
• Obtain all permits needed for the project and engineering stamp if needed. Ensure all inspections pass. This is an additional cost.

Job Tidiness

• We make it a point to clean at the end of each day as well as throughout the day as much as possible to make it a safe, and clean work environment.
• Nail sweeps, pickup trash, organize materials, clean up tools, provide temporary access if needed.
• We do a detailed final cleanup at the end of the project to leave the job as clean or cleaner than when we started.

• Footing inspection
• Framing inspection
• Final Inspection

• Call in locates prior to doing any digging.

• If damage occurs and 811 was not called it can be very costly.

• Can call in private locates if the customer chooses too to help mitigate the chances of damaging a private utility. This is an additional cost.

Footings

• Pour footings to code that are dug down to the frost line and raised above the ground level. We add rebar in our footings to provide additional support.

• Avoid using concrete blocks as footings that don’t reach the frost line. These can heave over time when the ground freezes or expands. This can make you deck unlevel or bouncy over time.

• Avoid having the top of your concrete below the ground level where the deck framing is against the dirt. This can cause your deck posts to rot over time.

• Pour concrete pad below stair landings. This provides a secure landing to fasten the stairs too.

Framing

• We typically use Pressure Treated Incised Framing for the Washington Climate. There also is the option of Aluminum framing but it is very costly.

• Typical untreated lumber will deteriorate quickly and your deck will not last long.

• We ensure all of our framing spans, spacing and sizes are to code.

• Failure to do this can result in framing that will begin to sag over time.

• We tape the top side of all of our framing and around the perimeter of the deck to extend the life of your framing.

• This protects the framing where it is most vulnerable and extends the life of your deck.

• We use all galvanized or Zmax hardware at all of you framing connection points to ensure deck stability. For our posts we install a bracket with a 1” standoff in order to get the wood off of the concrete and prevent rotting.

• We cut back the siding prior to installing our deck ledger that is attached to the house.. We ensure that the proper ledger fasteners and screw pattern are used to support the ledger.

• This is a critical step as it is bearing a lot of the weight of the deck. Failure to do this can result in your deck pulling away from the house.

• We install L metal flashing and tape against the house over your deck ledger.

• This is a critical step that prevents water from getting in and causing costly damage to your home.

• Install all of the proper blocking needed for the deck, deck border and railing.

• With a picture framed border many times you need to add blocking that way your decking ends all land on something.

• Many times blocking needs to be added to support your railing posts.

• Depending on the deck many times you need blocking between your joists for a more sturdy deck.
• We install a 1” PVC Deckboard on the bottom of our stair framing in order to get the framing off of the concrete. Many times decks rot out and fail at the bottom of the stair stringers.

Decking

Composite and PVC

• Although our preference for Composite and PVC decking is Timbertech, we are willing to install any brand's decking system. Here are some of our preferred install methods:

• Hidden Fastener system. We use the groove and clip system for the main decking, screw and plug system for the border decking. We use color matching screws for the fascia and risers.

• Picture Frame Border. This helps so you don’t see all of your deck board ends. You can also raise your Fascia flush with the decking but you need to make sure you Tape the perimeter of your deck and shim the fascia to allow the water to escape.

• No Butt joints on decking besides the border. We prefer to add a border board in the center of your deck if the decking isn’t long enough for the whole run.

• Square cut borders. Mitre cuts move and don’t look good for very long. This only works well if you have full boards otherwise you see the bottom carved out at the end.

• 3/16” is our standard deck board spacing but can adjust to the customers preference.

• Some customers chose to add accessories such as lights to their decks.

• There are two types of Dry space options if you want your deck to be dry underneath. One is a blatter system where you install a water proof liner between your framing and your deck boards. This allows you to put a nice soffit below your deck. You can also install a roof system below your framing that attaches to the bottom of your framing.

We also install Cedar, Thermally treated wood and hardwood decks with similar applications. Each system is a bit different in the install process.Composite and PVC

Railings

• Aluminum and Cedar railings are the most common but there is also Composite and PVC if the customer chooses. There are also many different brands, infill, top rail, post and accessory options to choose from.

Change Orders and Contingencies:

• Although it’s not super common in our line of work things do come up. There are unforeseen things when you need to dig or open up walls that can change the build process and cause extra work. We put contingencies in our quotes to cover us for things like buried utilities, large roots or rocks, rot.